[rawstyles]

Well here's whats going on.
After buying my '87 crx about 3 months ago, my mom finally brought it to me via 7 hours of straight highway driving from Albuquerque, NM to Phoenix, AZ. Decent drive right? Well, (and I'm only stating this because this is around the time my issues began, meaning it could very much not be the reason for my over heating) I changed out the ECU, which was one from an Acura Integra (which the previous owner installed for God knows what) to an '87 civic hatch Ecu (for emission perpases). And for some reason it seemed as tho the day after doing so My car won't go 15 miles without over heating. So, instinct tells me to start with the thermostat. Which I change out with no luck. Then I notice my fan isn't kicking on. So BOOM, I think I've found my problem. I replace the cooling fan switch and relay, and take it for a test drive, and what do you know. Still over heating. So now I'm thinking water pump, but at the same time, in this Arizona heat (anywhere from 100 to 110) wouldn't my car be in the 'red zone' after driving only a mile if no water is being pumped thru the block? My car's not over heating until 10-15 miles of highway driving.

Any advice?

[Fuse]

Im just going to make a list of things to check.

Bleed the cooling system (jack up front end take off the cap idle the car 20min with the heater on)

Jump the fan switch connector with a paper clip (get a book for your car at www.hondatech.info find your fan switch) If you jump it with the key on the fan should turn on. If it dose you fan system is working. Then plug the connector back in run it a bit and see if the fans working. If so the fan switch is fine.

Make sure your cap is sealing if its not the coolant just blows over.

Run the ecu for the motor d16 run a pm6

Make sure your radiator fins are not clogged with gunk no air flow. Or if you have a bunch of gunk in the coolant it can clog the radiator internally.

The water pump is hard to check you almost have to have it in your hand when they fail its due to rust the pump fins are usually almost gone by that time. There is a weep hole on the pump if its leaking means the seal has gone bad.

Head gasket do a leak down test, compression test, or look at your plugs if they are all white that usually means coolant. Look for smoke............

Check hoses some times if they get mixed up it can over heat. The c shaped on circulates coolant threw the block and the head when the thermostat is not open.

Thats about all I can think of at the time but should help you find the problem.

[Danny]

I would do what Bergin (fuse) said, then report back and if none of those worked we can go from there.

[rawstyles]

Okay, well the fan system, I know, works. Fan switch was replaced with the fan itself. I bought a new radiator cap, so I know it's not loosing compression at the cap.
Yesterday I went to Autozone and did a compression test, and sure 'nough I'm loosing compression slowly but surely. With the compression test still hooked up to the radiator I start the car and press the throttle, and the compression guage jumps everytime. So I'm thinking head gasket?
Either way, just to stay on the safe side I bought a water pump and new head gasket.
So we'll see how everything turns out once I install everything.. I'll be sure to keep everyone posted.

Thanks for the help!

(in my head)
"Damn.. I should just get my shit red hot and sit in my driveway and redline till she blows. Maybe that'll motivate the mom and pops to help invest in my swap!" =D....


^kidding. =|

[Danny]

lol, blown the sohc and do the lsvtec build! lol

nah, but yeah do the head gasket and waterpump. should do timing belt while you're at it (if it hasnt been done) as well as the tensioner. maybe even oil pump, lol.

[Fuse]

If it was my car I would just stick with the d sohcs are underrated but can put down some big numbers and cost less in the long run.

[rawstyles]

Originally Posted by Fuse

If it was my car I would just stick with the d sohcs are underrated but can put down some big numbers and cost less in the long run.

Haha.. Yeah, I get that alot.

FUCK!

I just got my car back with the new head gasket set on it and new water pump and its still over heating.

The guy told me that the guage would still read hot because my thermostat switch is bad but that it wasn't really over heating.

So I drive it from his shop to my work and i hear the coolant hissing. and dripping from the bottom of the over-flow resevoir.

What now!?!?!

[EvilMunkey]

I'm sure you fixed it by now, but I would check the thermostat, and the switch. Also check your IACV and see if there are any issues on the coolant feed on it. .

[rawstyles]

Lol. Yeah.. She's all patched up now. After a new thermostat, fan switch, fan motor, water pump, and just about every other cooling componant there is, I found out all I had was a clogged radiator. =) So, I replaced it. Now I have to try just to get the car hot enough for the fan to kick on. oh yeahhh...

Anyways, thanks for all the good advice ppl.

[EvilMunkey]

lmao I was about to say you could have a clogged section in your radiator after I thought about it some more. . And of course if you wanted your thermostat to open sooner could always try the Mugen thermostat and switch. . but it's a bit late for that, lol